Need a Place to Relax?
When we traveled to Peru, we stayed in three different Belmond-branded properties. I, honestly, was not familiar with Belmond properties at all before heading to Peru, so I wasn’t sure what to expect.
As I mentioned before, we went to Peru as part of a group, so I didn’t do a whole lot of research before we left…but I did some research, mainly to see if we would be able to get bookings without being part of a group (and no, booking 1-2 months in advance during high season is not possible).
But, I did notice in my research that one of the biggest debates was “where to stay” at Machu Picchu, itself. There aren’t that many luxury hotels, if that is what you are after, and there is only one at the actual archaeological site–the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge. There are a gabillion TripAdvisor reviews, of which most I found to be a tad bit unhelpful…like “the rooms are too small.”
I mean, you are on the side of a mountain right next to one of the most amazing archaeological sites in the word…and you spend enough time in your room to complain about the size? Shaking my head.
There are some really major benefits to staying at Machu Picchu rather than in Aguas Calientes (though Inkaterra is the best bet if you stay in Aguas, I think, for a luxury stay. We had lunch there and the property is quite nice). Here’s my take on staying at the Belmond Santuary Lodge, if you are on the fence (if you are looking for a budget option, this is not for you).
You Don’t Have to Hurry
If you are staying the night at the Belmond, you can go up the afternoon before and explore the site as the sun descends and most visitors leave. The light can often be better in the afternoon than sunrise! Plus, when we went in to the site after lunch, within an hour or so, most people started trickling out. You don’t have to catch a bus down, so you can spend the afternoon enjoying the site until it closes. Not only do you get ample opportunity to explore in the afternoon without being crowded, it is also really nice to have 2 part days to spend exploring Machu Picchu. A large part of enjoying Machu Picchu, to me, is being able to wander without time pressure.
The View from Our Room
It Makes Your Morning Easier
When we arrived in Aguas, we had to wait a very long time for a bus up to Machu Picchu (at least an hour and a half, and likely more). We also heard the bus line was very long the following morning. While getting up early is a small price to play to see Machu Picchu, at least when you are already at the top, you can get up a little bit later, gauge the line/buses coming in, and make a decision of when to line up for entrance depending on what you want to do/see that morning. Additionally, just being there is simply gorgeous–rather than waiting in line for the bus in Aguas, you can stare down the valley and enjoy a cup of coffee and some breakfast.
The Property is Gorgeous
I really don’t understand all the complaints about this property on TripAdvisor given its uniqueness and location. There is a hot tub, crazy beautiful vistas, a large grassy area with loungers that overlooks the valley, and even fantastically hidden places for yoga and massages. I definitely could have spent just a little more time enjoying and relaxing there! The rooms are definitely clean, and while the hallways feel a bit dated, who spends time in the hallways, anyway, while next to Machu Picchu? And there should be no FOMO (fear of missing out); while Aguas certainly has its charm, few travelers use it as anything but an overnight on the way up to Machu Picchu.
Yoga, Anyone?
It’s Only One Night
I realize that cost is one of the biggest reasons that people avoid the Belmond and use another hotel in Aguas Calientes. However, you should always check to see how much more expensive the Belmond is, particularly in comparison to other luxury options like Inkaterra. Now, if you want to explore Aguas, are climbing/hiking from Aguas, or want to hike up to Machu Picchu instead of taking the bus, staying in the valley may be a great option for you. But if the only reason you are avoiding staying at the Belmond is because of price, I would suggest that you weigh the factors above: you get relaxing time to explore Machu Picchu without as many crowds, you can spend your morning not waiting in bus lines, and you can enjoy being in such an amazing locale for a night.
And for those that are concerned about the “small” rooms: the rooms here are not even close to being as small as many European hotels and definitely not as small as nice hotels I’ve stayed at in NYC or Mexico City. No, they aren’t penthouses, but they do include a sitting area, table, and beautiful doors that open to a shared veranda with your own loungers. Come on, people.
Veranda & Loungers
Did you stay at the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge? What did you think?
Read this with great interest Heather as I only recently came to know of this property and have been so tempted to stay there, though if I want to go around March – May next year, sounds like I might already have left it a bit late so maybe I should plan another time! I’ve really learned to take some TA reviews with a pinch of salt because I just can’t relate to the mindset of some of the reviews I read and the example you’ve given here is exactly the kind of one I mean!
I’d definitely recommend, even if just for a night to spend more time at MP. I don’t think March-May is as busy there as August, so you might still be in luck! The other Belmond properties in Peru were also wonderful…more on those soon, hopefully.