I had read about the archeological site of El Cano, and we decided to hire a car to drive over and explore for the morning. It was about an hour drive from the resort. We had no idea what to expect! I believe it is a $2 entrance fee per person; the site may not be open every day, so may be worth calling ahead.

El Cano is one of the most important sites in Central America and definitely, arguably, one of Panama’s most important archaeological finds. It contains pre-Columbian period burial sites that are dated between 700-1000 AD.  This period was prior to any European contact, and particularly Spanish looting of existing burial sites, and has provided scientists with more information about Central America during this period.  The burial sites have been full of some really fascinating artifacts that had not been previously found at other sites–in particular, a huge numbers of gold items, including necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. In addition to these artifacts, including a golden lobster, there is also a field of stone monoliths and sculptures that had drawn historians before the burial sites were discovered.

Based on the findings at El Cano and another nearby site (Sitio Conte), it appears as if the chief (leader of the chiefdom) is surrounding in the burial pit by a number of individuals, including a child. Historians believe that these individuals were likely captives or slaves that may have been sacrificed when the chief died. In a very strange discovery, scientists also discovered a vessel full of bones from a pufferfish–that may have been used to kill the sacrificial humans for the burial, though that is mostly hypothesis. The pits were typically covered by a thatch hut, which they have reconstructed in a few places on the site.

Now, El Cano is really not a visitor destination. And if you are looking for a complex site with lots to look at and take pictures of this site is not for you. There are simple grass paths from one area to another. The museum is “under construction” and has been that way for more than a few years. All of the artifacts have been removed and sent to museums (most not in Panama).  That said, if you are interested in archaeology like us, and want to go explore, the site is worth a stop.  In terms of scientific interest and relevance, El Cano is pretty amazing. But there isn’t that much to see, other than the stone monoliths, the grass-covered burial hills, and a mocked-up burial pit. The largest excavation pit was covered while we were there and not available for public viewing, as of Fall 2017 (courtesy, or so we were told, of National Geographic and the Smithsonian Institution who continue to pay for some of the excavation at the site).

Our guide was really enthusiastic about the site, its meaning to Panama, and was knowledgeable about El Cano and the pre-Columbian period. We took the tour in Spanish since it was obvious he preferred that, and we both needed to practice! English is also available if your Spanish is not archaeological site ready.  I’m now thankful that my Spanish teacher had me read Nat Geo for a while…

Other than the entrance fee (I’m happy to pay $2 in the hopes that maybe it goes to the community or further preservation, but one never knows), there is really no indication that Panama has tried to capitalize–or has the funds to capitalize–on the finds or historical relevance of El Cano. I hope that perhaps they can get a small visitor center together with signs in both English and Spanish so that more people can learn about the importance of the site in Central American history. It’s definitely worth a stop if you are in the area and have a car. While it may be stating the obvious, there is plenty to enjoy here, just don’t go expecting a site like Caracol or Pompeii or anything you’ve seen in Egypt.

We actually weren’t planning to walk to the Sun Gate on our free morning at Machu Picchu. Most trekkers come in through the Sun Gate, as it is the end of the Inca Trail. But for those of us who didn’t trek, the Sun Gate is about a mile up from the main site of Machu Picchu.

In August, the sun rises at about 7am, and the line into Machu Picchu was no joke either the afternoon we arrived or the next morning. In order to get to the top of the Sun Gate, we would have had to line up well before 6am in order to hopefully get in the gate as quickly as possible and make it to the Sun Gate. Instead, we decided to hike to one of the upper points of the ruins, and enjoyed the sunrise from there.  We were concerned that the Sun Gate would be really crowded, and that we might not make it up to the Sun Gate anyway, because the line just to get in was really long. The view from here was fantastic, and most visitors stay farther below so it wasn’t crowded at all.  After watching the sunrise, we decided that it would be fun to walk to the Sun Gate anyway, so off we went!

Sun Creeping Over Machu Picchu

How long it takes you to hike to the Sun Gate depends on two things: how fit you are (and how you handle altitude) as well as how much time you spend on the way up taking pictures of the beautiful view below.  Most guides suggest that it will take 1 to 1.5 hours up and about 40 minutes on the way down. It took us about 1.5 hours or a little bit more roundtrip and we spent probably 20 minutes or so at the top. If you have problems with altitude, it will definitely take longer–we passed many people who were having a really hard time walking uphill at 9,000 feet.

View On The Trail to the Sungate

The Sun Gate was to be the main entrance for the Incas to Machu Picchu, and does provide a stunning view of the entire site. But as our guides said, if you are looking for the “best view ever” you might be disappointed–Machu Picchu does look really small from there.  If you are just interested in getting a fun hike in and some good views, the Sun Gate is absolutely worth it.

That said, I think whether or not you walk to the Sun Gate really depends on how much time you have at the site: if you are there just for a few hours or half-day in the morning, I’m not really sure–that unless you just want a fun hike–that the Sun Gate is worth it. Because we were able to spend the entire afternoon prior exploring the site, until Machu Picchu closed, the next day there wasn’t a ton more that we really wanted to see, and the extra bit of exercise definitely sounded nice (marathon training, remember?).

Overall, here is my verdict on the Sun Gate:

Hike: Uphill, but easy path with some stairs.

Length: 45 minutes up if you are fit/not having altitude issues; 1.5 hours if you are having a hard time.

View: Excellent, just to take in the expanse of Machu Picchu and the surrounding areas, but there are lots of fantastic views throughout the site as well. Can be hazy/foggy, and depending on you camera and skills, lighting can be tough. So if you are going up just to get a good photo, you may be disappointed.

Overall: If you have time and want exercise, it’s definitely a fun hike. If you are doing it just to say you did (come on, we all know people like that), or for the one and only perfect shot of Machu Picchu, well, you might be disappointed.

Machu Picchu Nestled into the Andes, from the Sun Gate

The City of Cusco

Modern Cusco Exists Because of Travelers

I really didn’t realize, before visiting Cusco, the sheer number of visitors the city has each year. Nor did I realize that the city as it is today probably wouldn’t exist except for the visitors heading to Machu Picchu. I’ve been to some popular archaeological sites (like Angkor and the pyramids), but I found the city of Cusco to be just filled to the brim with visitors (of all types) and very “touristy”. Now, this isn’t necessarily a bad thing, depending on your wants and expectations. But as a result, the city seemed “built” to please, e.g., a Starbucks on the corner (I was tempted), tons of restaurants intended to appeal to travelers, and everyone speaking English.

To cut to the chase: you don’t need to speak a lick of Spanish in Cusco (though I think it’s always appreciated), you can find pretty much whatever you want to eat, and it’s really easy to navigate all the major areas. Just don’t expect an immersion into Peruvian culture if you stick to the paths most traveled–it’s a place built for and around visitors and their preferences.

Just in Case You Wanted Alpaca or Cuy (Guinea Pig, Of Course!)

It’s Chilly at Night but Let’s Not Exaggerate

So much has been written about “how cold” Cusco can be.  This is all about perspective–yes, Cusco can be chilly–but “cold” to me (from Wyoming) means COLD. It essentially never snows in Cusco (in fact, one of our guides had never actually seen snow before except on the Andes flying between Lima and Cusco). In August, I had a Patagonia down-fleece hybrid jacket (which I adore, by the way), but save one night walking three blocks home I really didn’t need it.

The deal: if you are from an area with actual winter, Cusco isn’t cold. It might not be warm, and you might need a light fleece, but you don’t need the bunny suit that makes you look like the down-loving Michelin Man. You just don’t.

Cusco is a City (Hiking Boots and Trekking Poles Not Needed)

Due to it’s proximity to Machu Picchu, and the fact that most travelers use it as a jumping off point, you see all kinds of outfits in Cusco. But if you aren’t hiking, at all, during your time in Peru, Cusco is a city and you should wear things that you normally wear in a city. Just because it is at 12,000 feet and in the mountains doesn’t make it into some type of Andean snow cave maze. Streets are paved, nice restaurants can be found, and there is no need for mountaineering gear.

What I really want to say: take normal clothes and wear them. Jeans or khakis are fine! Sure, the Patagonia jacket isn’t going to look out of place, but hiking boots, bandanas, and trekking pants are really ridiculous. Obviously if you are trekking you get a pass here. If you wouldn’t dress this way in say, Denver, I just don’t get the attraction of looking like you are on your way to Everest. I know, I know. I’m being snarky.

Cusco is a City (Don’t Be An Idiot, and Things Are Generally Fine)

I get pretty annoyed (since I now live in a city) when I listen to people 1) rave about how safe a city is, or 2) rave about how dangerous a city is…both are usually totally unrealistic and unfair generalizations. Cusco, like any city, has it’s ruts and back alleys. And, let’s face it: would you pull a wad of cash out in New York City to count how much you have? (If your answer is yes…well..I’m judging your judgement). Yes, there are always those lurking just waiting for a purse on a bench or hung over a chair. As there are in most cities. But in general, Cusco–particularly all the tourist areas–truly seem fine for walking around, even after dark.

The verdict: don’t wander around drunk at 2am to places you know you shouldn’t be, and use good judgement. Cusco is neither the awful place it’s made out to be by some travel bloggers or the safest place ever where you can leave your Cartier watch on the dinner table just as a test. If only someone could bottle common sense.

Cusco is Filled with Things to Do

I was actually amazed with how much there is to do in Cusco, and how much I enjoyed being there. It’s beautiful, first of all, with the blend of Spanish, Incan, and Andean/Peruvian architecture, culture, and influences.  Note to all–the rainbow flag does not mean what it does in the United States (or Europe), so don’t get all excited about equal rights: it’s actually the flag of Cusco.

There are many museums, cathedrals, squares to sit and people watch, lots of shopping, an art district (San Blas), and archaeological sites including Saksaywaman which has stone blocks that are a whopping 19 feet tall or so. Unbelievable! We found the food to be pretty good, too, and perhaps most importantly, there is always a place to grab a Cusquena (in negra, roja, or regular). In addition, Cusco is a great place to “jump-off” in Peru, whether you want to head to Tambopata (like me…next time), Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley, the Andes, or for other treks.

It’s a good all around city where you can both explore and relax, and certainly worth a few days on any trip to Peru.

But the Inca Empire seriously spans the entire country of Peru (and much of the far-west of South America, in general).

Only about 2 hours from Cusco, which was both the political and military capital of the Incan Empire, is the Sacred Valley. And in the Sacred Valley is Ollantaytambo.  Ollantaytambo (the town, not the archaeological site) is now the starting point for the Inca Trail hike to Machu Picchu, so it sees a ton of traffic from visitors. You can also pick up the train from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu.  But the archeological site of Ollantaytambo is worth time, in and of itself.

The site of Ollantaytambo is simply stunning, and an interesting contrast from the greenery and lushness of Machu Picchu (at least in August). Ollantaytambo’s terraces are impressive, and you can still see the route from the quarry where the enormous stone monoliths came from at the top of Ollantaytambo. It’s incredibly amazing to see the massive quarries and long routes (5 kilometers or more down and up steep mountains) the Incas took to move those ginormous stones to Ollantaytambo and other sites.  While sliding the blocks downhill seems sort-of feasible, getting the stones uphill is sort of like pushing rope, no?  The architectural feats of the Incas (and other civilizations) are truly amazing.

Massively Large Blocks, Moved by Aliens

I guess that’s why there are so many believable alien conspiracy theories. Kidding. Obviously. Ya’ll know I’m big on believing things I can’t see. Actually, experts in these things have developed a wooden platform and lever system that they suspect the Incas used (with large labor forces) to slowly move the many ton stones. But there are also multiple blocks laying haphazardly both in Ollantaytambo and in the paths from the quarries destined for structures that were never completed (damn you, Spanish conquistadors). The Spaniards and the Incas also had a large battle at or near Ollantaytambo.

The old town area of Ollantaytambo (the old Incan city) is still occupied, with tiny brick-lined streets and beautiful Inca walls.  It’s amazing to see the structures being used much in their original state.

Incredible Block Construction–These Interlock Like Legos!

We hiked to the top of Ollantaytambo, which has beautiful views into the surrounding valleys. And I use the word “hike” loosely. It’s all stairs. While the altitude may make you pant, there isn’t any arduous hiking required to see these ruins.  Regular tennis shoes are fine, as are Tevas or Toms. Be warned though, much of the Incan stone can become slippery if covered in water or dew. While it can be cool in the morning, it warms up quickly and Ollantaytambo gets a good dose of high altitude sunlight, so take layers but keep yourself protected from the sun. While a guide isn’t necessary, there aren’t any explanatory signs or information as you explore, so if you are interested in learning more, either buy a book or get a guide for an hour or two.

It’s hard to explain the enormity and impressiveness of the Incan cities. But definitely don’t miss the opportunity to visit if you have to take the train or start your hike from here–it’s worth a few hours!

Incredible Terraces

Day 1: Arrive from United States, check in, and go explore the National Archaeological Museum.
Depending on your connections, you’ll probably land in Naples in late morning. Don’t try to venture far on your first day–but do accomplish something! Head to the National Archaeological Museum to check out their wonderful artifacts from Pompeii, Herculaneum, Egypt and more. While many suggest that you have to visit the museum after the archeological sites themselves, I don’t really think it matters and the visit left us even more excited to see the sites. Stop for gelato along the way. More than once if you want. Grab a quick dinner–we loved Osteria Il Garum, and head to bed early.

Day 2: Day at Pompeii!
Even if you don’t think you’ll spend all day there, block out most of the day to spend. We don’t like to linger and easily spent about 5-6 hours wandering around and enjoying the site. If you decide to leave early, you can spend the rest of the afternoon exploring Naples. I definitely would not try to do Herculaneum and Pompeii in the same day. While it’s possible, I would have been burnt out and cranky. Take the Circumvensia out to Pompeii via either station downtown. It was not crowded when we went (late March, early April), and there were plenty of seats. At Pompeii, be sure to grab a map (some are better than others), and some water. There are street vendors on the way in if you’ve forgotten. I think Pompeii is best enjoyed at leisurely pace with plenty of time to read and wander around. By the time you are ready to head back to Naples, it will be later in the afternoon. Stop for some gelato or grab some pizza and enjoy a leisurely stroll back to your hotel in the evening.

Day 3: Relaxing Day in Capri
To break up the constant stream of archaeology, Capri can be a fun day-trip. Alternatively, the Almalfi Coast may be more up your alley. You can take either the ferry or the ‘express’ hydrofoil to Capri. I’m not really sure the hydrofoil is that much faster, so if you are looking to save money, the regular ferry works just fine. It will be pretty busy, but in the morning you don’t need to buy tickets ahead of time. When you get off the ferry in Capri, I’d suggest you go buy tickets for the return ferry–or at least do so before lunch. Even in “off” season, the hydrofoil was sold out for quite a few hours, and the regular ferry also was not available at peak return times (like 5pm and 6pm). Decide if you are interested in the blue grotto, and take a boat ride around Capri–lots of choices, we used LaserJet which was just fine. You can also hire a private boat. Enjoy the crisp breeze and crystal water. Take the funicular up to the top, spend time wandering around the heinously expensive shops and find somewhere good to eat. Or just have more gelato. There are fantastic views to be had. If you want and have time, you can head over to Anacapri. You’ll be ready for dinner and bed by the time you return on the ferry to Naples. Side note–the ferry terminal and surrounding area is safe, clean, and o.k. even in the evening.

Day 4: Tackle Vesuvius and Herculaneum
There is a ticket office/tour service for Vesuvius right off the Ercolano stop on the Circumvensia. It’s not cheap (though it also includes entrance fees), but it was fun to walk up Vesuvius, which is still smoking/venting in parts. It takes about 25 minutes to get to the drop-off point, and they give you I think 2 hours to make it to the top and return. It’s not particularly leisurely, but if you are relatively fit you can make it and also walk part-way around the rim. This isn’t America–there aren’t lots of ‘danger’ signs, so be careful with your footing. We enjoyed seeing the crater and the huge ash fields, as well as a beautiful view of Naples below. Once you return on the bus, you can take a short walk from the Ercolano stop to Herculaneum, which is a totally different experience from Pompeii. Right on the shore, Herculaneum reminds you more of a metropolitan area–some of it remains under the city of Ercolano. There are lots of fun details at Herculaneum that you didn’t see at Pompeii (like wooden beams, iron bars, two story buildings), so enjoy and wander leisurely. Stop in the quaint Ercolano for a bite to eat (or some beer or gelato) before you return to Naples.

Day 5: Return to the United States
Spend the morning if you have an hour or two exploring Naples and just taking a stroll. Even around the port areas the water is a deep, rich, sparkly blue, so heading to the sea is always a good plan. With some gelato, of course.