A few months ago, someone emailed me wondering if we had felt like flying into Bhutan was safe. Then, at Thanksgiving, a family friend of the in-laws asked the same question: is it really safe to fly into Paro, Bhutan? Doesn’t help when the Paro runway shows up on the World’s Scariest Runways list. For what it’s worth, I’ve had way, way scarier landings (including an aborted landing) at Washington National, which also makes the list!

Without hesitation, I would say we felt safe flying into Bhutan, particularly (and all I’m discussing) when using the national flag carrier Druk Air. We were more in awe of the scenery than worrying about how close we were to the sides of the mountain. Now, neither DH or I are fearful fliers. In fact, both of us have zero fear of flying (though DH has some serious anxiety about getting onto the plane and storing his luggage…but the actual flying? Nope, all good).

I think these questions amplified when the airline was ranked poorly in early 2016 by Airline Ratings (you can read about that here). But when you read about why, you may get a different opinion of not only the ranking, but the rating system in general. I realize that rating systems all have their flaws and benefits, but when Druk Air ranks behind a U.S. airline with 5 emergency landings in a month, well, that makes you wonder.  The linked article offers the 2 reasons why it lost so many points: the first is because it does not have International Air Transport Association Operational Safety Audit certification. While an international standard, the cost of certification is really significant, particularly for a fleet/company as small as Druk Air.

The second is because the country’s regulator was not deemed to having met International Civil Aviation Organization standards/safety parameters based on a 2006 audit. The director of Bhutan’s Civil Aviation authority points out that Druk Air follow similar, internal safety audit procedures and that significant steps have been made since 2006.

Certainly, there may be some reason for concern. I don’t want to diminish the fact that perhaps the airline is under-regulated or that Bhutan’s regulatory authorities may provide insufficient oversight. But to rank the national airline so lowly primarily due to administrative oversight seems a bit harsh.

If nothing else, I’d argue this: statistically, Druk Air’s safety record speaks for itself. It has not had any major issue in 27-years of operation. I hate to cite Wikipedia (the girls at work would kill me) but I’m going to do it anyway…it seems there has only been one incident, and that was on approach to India when they hit a hail storm. A safe landing was made. And I’d also point out that Druk Air, flying into and out of Paro airport, is significantly more difficult and dangerous than landing in, say, Denver or Geneva.

Druk Air’s pilots are highly qualified and fly on visual flight rules only; even other aviators acknowledge that there is little margin for error in the narrow valley at nearly 7500 feet (read here). Not many pilots land on a routine basis using only visual flight rules in large aircraft. Back in 2014, there were only reported to be 8 pilots that were qualified to land. Only captains are allowed to fly in and out. On our flight in, there were at least 3 and possibly 4 licensed pilots in the cockpit–including one that went in just for the landing. Druk Air also observes weather, not timetables. Our flight left nearly 45 minutes early because weather was moving in. Yep, it makes it harder to plan, but as the old adage goes, “better safe than sorry”.

Flying into a narrow valley among 16,000 foot peaks, and getting to see the tippy top of Everest is a flight I will never forget. But not because I was clinging on to the edge of my seat.

Packing for Bhutan is tough. I also found it really hard to find packing advice I could relate to: the “hiking boots and convertible pants for every occasion” is not really for me. Yes, I have tech gear. No, I don’t enjoy looking like I’m about to go hike when I sit down at dinner. Yes, I know that is petty. And I’m not particularly sorry I’m not sorry–I still like to look nice (and be comfortable, who am I kidding), even if I am in one of the most remote countries on earth.

And we don’t check luggage, so while I don’t have to be 100% right about what I want to wear, I have to be at least 75% in order to have enough clothes/plan for laundry.

So here goes my answers to their great questions:

1. Did you need the Patagonia Better Sweater?

Yes and no. I wore it on the plane both directions, and also the night I got sick. For everyday wear, I didn’t touch it. If you are traveling July-September, I think you could get away without it. Beyond those months, I’d take it, just in case. I’d also take it if you are venturing to higher altitudes for an extended period or to the northern part of the country.

2. How do you dress appropriately for temples/culture when it is so hot outside for hiking?

This is a tough one. My preferred solution, usually, was to put on a cool, wicking UPF shirt, hoody, or cardigan over a tank top. This meant I was protected from the sun (which is quite strong at high altitudes), but also meant I was sufficiently covered for temples and general walking. While I think I could have gotten away with wearing a tank top while hiking to temples, I don’t think it would have been overly appropriate and I definitely would have been self-conscious in the countryside. If you prefer to hike in a t-shirt/tech shirt and throw a long-sleeve shirt on when you reach a temple, that is fine as well. I just wanted to carry less and not have to re-apply sunscreen when I was already drenched in sweat.

Ex Officio Sun Hoody

Here are some good options for UPF (SPF for clothing) clothes, depending on your style. I always opt for white or a light color so it matches pretty much anything and doesn’t attract sun/heat.

• Ex Officio Zip Hoody
• Coolibar Cardigan
• Lululemon Half Zip (on sale!)
• Patagonia Sunshade Hoody
• Mott 50 Swing Top (tons of stylish UPF options)
• Patagonia Long Sleeve (love the blue gingham)

3. Do temperatures vary a lot during the day? I.e. is dressing in layers always needed?

As with many high altitude locations, yes. When the sun comes out, it can get hot and steamy quite quickly. When the sun goes down, well, the heat goes away. However, this happens very, very quickly. So often by the time that you drive somewhere, it’s warm enough to peel off any heavier layer you had on. Typically this was my rain coat and scarf–which isn’t that heavy to begin with. I also always had a tank on underneath a sun shirt so I could wear that on the car ride home or at the hotel if I really overheated. Now this applies for the summer months–for all the other seasons, I’d plan on a heavier layer as I said before.

4. Pants are always hot…are there alternatives to zip on and zip offs (i.e., hiker pants) for hiking then visiting temples?

Sigh. I’m in the camp that refuses to wear zip-offs. Sorry ya’ll. What I have found, though, is pants that snap up so you can at least have breeze around your ankles (you may need to put them down for temples, still).  Your other option is to wear shorts (length appropriate, obviously) and then carry a lightweight pair of pants that easily slip on and off over your shoes.  I still just wear lightweight pants much of the time. I did not think running tights or super tight yoga pants were appropriate in Bhutan. Here are some options:

• Slip over: Mott 50 Beach Pant
• Slip over & cinch up: Lululemon Studio Pant
• Lightweight: Patagonia Away from Home Pant
• Lightweight, cinch & slip!: Athleta La Viva (have these, love these)
• Lightweight & slip: Athleta Midtown Trouser
• Lightweight: Anatomie Paola Pants (love these too but they are $$$$$)

 Stylishly (haha) Rolled Up Pants…Before I Fell in an Irrigation Ditch and Covered My Leg in Mud

Just as a side note: I have clothes from Lululemon, Athleta, Patagonia, and Anatomie (nope, I’m not paid to advertise either). I’ve been dying to try Mott 50, so if you give them a shot, I’d love to know what you think! I love the liberal return policy of Athleta and Patagonia’s absolute guarantee of their products for life. Both are really important to me, and I’ve had great experiences with both companies. Anatomie pants have held up well, and I love my Lululemon, even when it’s not practical…and certainly not cheap.

5. What item of clothing was most useful?

This question was way harder than I was expecting. I definitely think simple tank tops with built in bras in neutral colors were the most useful. I could hike in them (with the aforementioned UPF sunshirt over) or wear them to dinner with a scarf, cardigan, and maxi skirt or pants. Plus, super useful for Thailand for the same reasons–easy to layer, easily dressed up, avoids having to pack bras + shirts, can be washed in a sink, etc. I’ve even slept in mine. I know they don’t work for everyone but if they do, I think they are a great choice. Athleta, Lululemon, Patagonia all have great options depending on your size/style preferences.

As for accessories, a scarf! Definitely one that is big enough to be warm, pretty enough to add something to fun to any outfit, and durable enough to not pull on zippers or velcro.

6. How technical does clothing need to be? Does everything have to be breathable/wicking/tech-like?

What you wear during the day–if you are going to moving/hiking–should probably be wicking/breathable. But not everything has to be “tech”: I think some of the links above are some good more fashionable options that also will keep you relatively cool and comfortable. Now, I’m never a huge proponent of traveling with sweatshirts, multiple pairs of jeans, or lots of cotton–while clothes don’t need to be techie, I do think packed items should be packable, non-wrinkling, and easy to wash/dry. I love technical fabrics in less technical styles.

7. Are nicer hotels places where you dress “up” for dinner?

No, generally not. I don’t even remember seeing skirts or dresses at all. Most people just had comfortable pants and and a classic or fashionable shirt.  I took a maxi skirt (Athleta has some good sale options!), which was really useful, and two scarfs, so I always had something just a little bit ‘dressier. I also remember wearing some tights with a long tunic, too. From my impressions, Bhutan is not somewhere “resort” wear is appropriate: heels are silly, skimpy dresses are out of place, and looking neat, relaxed, and comfortable is the way to go. I generally wore my Ipanema sandals, that aren’t ‘dressy’ but aren’t Tevas or sneakers either. They were comfortable and easy to slip on.

Bhutan is absolutely incredible and a wonderful experience. Enjoy!!

2. Ema Dhatse (Bhutan)
Who can’t love a national dish that is like an extra hot queso but better? I’ve long been a fan of queso, so ema dhatse was an exciting find for me. I’m not sure where you can find ema dhatse outside of Bhutan, so if anyone has spotted the stuff on a menu, let me know. It’s very flavorful, with a tang and a zap of pepper. But it’s also really, really hot. I was barely dabbing it on a full plateful of rice and still chugging water. If you go to Bhutan, don’t be afraid to ask the chef to dumb it down–even those that are super tolerant of heat may have a hard time with a whole bowl of this deliciousness.  Is it a meal? A condiment? Probably a bit of both.

EMA DHATSE, BHUTAN

3. Pumpkin or Squash Soup (Tanzania)
I can be weird about food, and when we first went to Tanzania I totally turned up my nose at squash or pumpkin soup. Yes, I know this is not an inherently Tanzanian dish, that I could have ordered in many U.S. restaurants–but I wouldn’t have, until I tried it in Tanzania. It has quickly become a new favorite of mine, and I make it frequently in the winter. It doesn’t take much, and you can dress it up with some ginger, smoked paprika, garlic, or whatever you like. I think the pumpkin soup we had freshly cooked in the Serengeti will always hold a special place in my heart, but this has become a routine rotation in our home eating. Just please don’t put sugar on it…

4. Linzertorte (Austria)
A dessert person I am not, but Linzertorte is one of my favorites. It’s classically made with red currants, which give it this wonderful snappy tart taste with the sweeter dough. It’s definitely not overpowering, and is the perfect combination when you get it into one bite. I’ve also seen it with raspberries, which works just fine as long as too much sugar isn’t added to the berries. While I’ve perfected my raspberry pie (why does no one sell raspberry pie regularly….why), I have yet to tackle the beautiful lattice overlay found on a linzertorte. Someday.

5. Rondon (Costa Rica)
Rondon is one of those things that really just tastes better than it looks. If you get hung up on food appearance (and particularly color), rondon may not be right for you. It’s pretty much a fish/seafood stew, with some Caribbean spice added. We tried a few different restaurants in Costa Rica, and each put their own spin on it. Some added more crab–some added more crab legs that you couldn’t get the meat out of. Sometimes there was a lot of fish, sometimes there were more onions/broth. Nonetheless, grey school-lunch looking appearance aside, rondon is flavorful and delicious. A perfect soup, even for a hot day.

RONDON, COSTA RICA

What have you found when traveling that you love to eat?

If we thought Paro was a bit warm, Punakha was crazy hot and humid, but the valley was gorgeous. We arrived in Punakha after a fun drive from Thimpu, in which I was thanking my motion-sickness patch every hairpin turn along the way.The COMO Punakha property is stunning, it’s new, quaint, and with an absolutely beautiful view. They have a deck that is just incredible, overlooking the valley and perfect for an early breakfast or sundowner.We spent 2 nights in Punakha. Our first stop was at Chimi Lhakhang, otherwise known as the Temple of the Divine Madman. Catchy, right?

With just a short drive and a quick walk uphill through a small village and some rice paddies, we arrived at a small knoll and the Temple. Many couples visit this temple to be blessed for fertility, but there were just a few other visitors there at the same time.On the way, we were lucky enough to stop through the village and check out a few things they were making. Um..did you know rice pops like popcorn in oil over the fire? Yea…apparently everyone knew that but me. It was awesome to try some Bhutanese rice krispies, as well as a rice puff snack.

In most of the temples you enter in Bhutan, you have the option to be blessed (and an offering is expected if you accept the blessing). Honestly sometimes I think it’s a little awkward and we aren’t really into that (more into watching and listening), but we also didn’t want to offend by refusing a blessing, so we really decided when and when not to accept based on the specific situation. We typically gave to the temples regardless, though not in large amounts (equivalent to a few US dollars).If you are or were totally overwhelmed with history like we were, the Divine Madman is a story that is hard to forget, and you are reminded of the Divine Madman in many places in Bhutan, particularly in the Punakha Valley but also in other locations as he is a essential part of their history.

It goes something like this…(very, very abbreviated version…no offense intended, just aiming for brevity):Once upon a time (kidding…he actually lived between 1455 and 1529, according to most records), Drukpa Kunley–infamously known as the Divine Madman–built a chorten on the knoll. Kunley decided on this site when he fought with, and won (of course), a battle against a demon nearby. He won with his magic thunderbolt, which now adorns homes throughout Bhutan (see photo if you don’t know what the magic thunderbolt is).  The Divine Madman was best known for being completely, well, crazy and outrageous. His sexual endeavors were infamous, but he was also a famous poet (related? I’ll never know). He thought that existing teachers of Buddhism in Bhutan were a wee bit too conservative and anal, so he opted for the opposite, with song, dance, and by having sex with women to bless them (they would seek his blessing in this way, the story goes).

And this is how the phallus became a symbolic decoration throughout Bhutan, and the Divine Madman became one of Bhutanese Buddhism’s most important figures. The thunderbolt is considered not only a sign of fertility, in representation of and respect to the Divine Madman, but also thought to ward away gossip and other evilness.

Interesting, eh? So many fascinating stories, so much history, and so much I still have to learn about Buddhism.

In other news, I may have fallen in a rice paddy on the way home and emerged with a very, very disgusting shoe, but DH didn’t take pictures because he thought I would be mad…I was laughing…and wondering what kind of nematodes were crawling through my shoe, sock, and skin.

Archery is pretty self explanatory. We used the good old-fashioned bows (none of this compound nonsense), and wooden arrows with fake plastic feathers. Just like in gym class. Back when you were actually allowed to use a bow and arrow in gym class. I’m sure they’ve done away with that by now…sigh.

Now darts, though, darts is truly a Bhutanese pastime.  And they are amazingly good. Their darts resemble something of a lawn dart (oh, also outlawed here for safety reasons). They are about a foot long, with a huge metal spike (the dart), and a weight. We had wooden ones, until our guide broke out the good ones weighted with aluminum and let my husband play with those!

You have to get your dart on the target, or at least a dart’s length away from the target. Sounds easy enough, until you realize the target is smaller than the dart, and that the target is about 20m away.  You get a point for hitting the board at all, then 2 points for the bulls eye. However, if someone hits the board after you, and is closer than you, they get your point!

On Sunday, when we were leaving Punakha and heading back to Paro, we happened alongside a game of darts on the road between two rival taxi companies. We got out, and watched them throw the dart at absolutely insane speeds, hitting the target twice, just in the ten minutes we were standing there. They have special dances they do when they hit the target, and of course (our guide said), were partaking in the usual shit talking that goes with sports.

So much fun. I am annoyed that we couldn’t bring some darts home to play with; seriously lawsuit happy America? Couldn’t you have just darts out of the equation?

Have you played a different sport when you were traveling? Did you enjoy it?

I’m not one to just rave about hotel experiences. It’s very rare for me to really, really like a hotel.  But our experience with the COMO properties in both Bangkok and Bhutan were excellent, and I would not hesitate to stay at another COMO property in the future. (COMO did not pay for our stay or provide us any compensation for this endorsement, just so we’re up front here.)When we were first planning for our trip, the idea was to stay at the Metropolitan by COMO in Bangkok for one night–as we received a complimentary night for booking our Bhutan package with COMO.  Then, I had planned to use points to stay in a Marriott for the other two nights.  That plan was sort of scrapped when I drained most of my Marriott points in Naples, when we went to visit Pompeii. But one of the Marriott hotels was still less expensive, so we were considering a move.

I came to my senses and we realized how silly that was, with how little time we were spending in Bangkok. Did we really want to change hotels? No. Plus, we got a promotional rate at the Metropolitan, through COMO, since we had booked them as our tour operator in Bhutan.  So the Metropolitan it was.

The Metropolitan is not a small hotel (well, until you see the towering Banyan Tree next door); I think it has about 130 rooms. That said, we were addressed by name at the front desk each time we needed something, and we rarely saw more than 5-6 other guests at a time. While I think the hotel was relatively full (though it was off season, and I know Bangkok tourism is still suffering a bit from all the political change and protests earlier in the year), it felt far from crowded.Before our 3:40am transfer to the airport, they made us a hot breakfast, with freshly squeezed orange juice and all, to take with us.  They initially promised that it would be delivered to our room so we could eat it beforehand, and were most apologetic when it was not ready in time to be delivered. We were most certainly not expecting a fully cooked, fresh breakfast in a bag awaiting us at the front desk, after nothing showed up at our room!  It was most appreciated at that hour.

DH liked the Metropolitan too, even before we got an upgrade to the penthouse suite! Shout-out to the Metropolitan for that totally unprompted and unforeseen upgrade, we enjoyed ourselves. (Real question though…seriously, what do people do with all that space?!!) I also liked the Metropolitan because I thought the price point was extremely fair for the service, amenities, and rooms. No, it wasn’t the absolutely nicest hotel I’ve ever stayed at–but it was a hotel that I can afford to stay in without cringing at check out.

While I think a review of COMO as a tour operator in Bhutan deserves a separate review of its own (all great though), I will say the properties in Bhutan were a bit smaller and boutique than the Metropolitan in Bangkok. It seemed the staff always knew what you needed, where you had been, what you wanted to do–there was no having to repeat yourself to your guide, to reception, to the host at the restaurant. It was all seamless. And personalized: they knew what table you wanted after you asked the first night, always remembered what you ordered the morning before, and were always willing to go above and beyond. When I was sick the first night, they immediately just told DH they would serve us dinner in our room and suggested some things which might sound good to me. Of course, when I emerged the next morning I was asked numerous times if I was feeling better by multiple staff members.So COMO, you impressed me. The properties “fit” into their environments (both interior and exterior), both in Bhutan and Thailand.  Service was understated but yet so attentive and personal. Food was impeccable in all locations (and I’m picky). Shambala spa products are amazing. Everything was always clean. Heated towel bars rocked.

We’ll be back…maybe Turks & Caicos?  So many choices!

Have you stayed at a COMO property? What did you think?

I don’t think anyone goes to Bhutan, at least the first time, and doesn’t hike to the Tiger’s Nest, which is more correctly called Paro Taktsang Monastery.For many visitors, hiking to the Tiger’s Nest is the most strenuous thing they will do during their visit and as such, a source of some apprehension.  So here are some FAQs from our experience climbing to the Tiger’s Nest.

Do you need hiking boots?
Absolutely not. Even if it was really muddy I think hiking boots would be overkill. There are not boulders or rocks, and the hardest part of the whole hike is the set of stairs at the end, close to the monastery. DH and I both hiked in lightweight trail running shoes, and though we are both fit and active, we still feel like hiking boots are really unnecessary. If you are particularly concerned, you can get hiking shoes.

Are there tigers?
Uh, no. But if you see one, you might want to sit down and make sure you aren’t about to faint.

Is it hard?
We made it up with little difficulty–it took us about 2 hours up, with a good 30 minute break in the middle to drink some tea and gawk at the beautiful view. If you are in decent shape and have acclimated a bit to the altitude, it’s not bad. That said…on our way down we passed people who started at the same time as us, some of who had barely made it half way. If you are not fit, it will be rough. The guides are great and will carry your pack and coax you up, but it may be a long day. Also–for those trying to get into shape–walking on sidewalks at sea level is not the same as walking steep uphills at 7000 ft plus. Just sayin…

How high is it?
High. You start at about 7,000ft and the monastery is at 10,240ft.

Do you have to go all the way?
The best view is at the set of stairs which you have to climb down, and then back up, to reach the monastery. Quite a few visitors decide to call it a day at those stairs and turn around. The monastery–inside–is interesting, but not any more or less spectacular than the other monasteries you will see in Bhutan. It’s totally personal preference if you are content seeing it from afar or you really want to go inside.

Why is this monastery so special?
The Tiger’s Nest is where Girum Rinpoche flew on the back of a tigress from Tibet. Additionally, there is a cave where Langchen Pelkyi Singye came to meditate, and legend has it, when he died in Nepal, the body was miraculously returned. The cave is now sealed.

What should you wear?
Layers, if you are willing to carry them. Like on all hikes, layers are your friend. It gets warm, quickly, even if it’s cool in the morning. Plus, you have to be fully covered to enter the monastery, so take that into consideration (this means short sleeve shirt + collar for men, and long sleeve shirt for women, both have to wear pants). Lightweight, tech material that won’t be drenched in sweat and weigh 10 pounds is ideal.

Will it rain?
A raincoat is probably a good bet if you aren’t a fast hiker–rain tends to move in to the valley in the afternoon.

Are there restrooms at the Tiger’s Nest?
Yes, but I’d advise you strongly to avoid them. You’ve been warned. They weren’t quite Olduvai Gorge bad, but they are probably #2 on worst restrooms ever list.

Should I be concerned about all the dogs?
Nope. The dogs are nice company on the hike. I mean, I wouldn’t get all up close and personal, but they are vaccinated for rabies (mostly…the notches in the ears means they’ve been vaccinated), and just want some company as they make their way up for some free food. Yea, they also think western snacks are yucky…we gave one dog a piece of peanut butter cliff bar and he looked at us like we were nuts.

What’s it like inside?
Hmmm….well, pictures aren’t allowed and I sort of feel like it’s selling out to tell you too much with no hiking effort! But it’s interesting, lots of shrines as usual and some curious little rooms. Feels like a maze you could easily get lost in, lots of turns and nooks from being built precariously on a mountain.

Do I need to pack food?
Up to you. We packed some snacks but were up and back down in time for lunch in Paro. If you think you’ll be hungry, pack some things. There is a restaurant and cafe at the half way point–the food looked decent (all Bhutanese) and there were many people eating there.

Are there souvenirs to buy anywhere?
This is one of the few places where there are hawkers swelling stuff at the bottom when you head down. Not sure if there is anything to Tiger’s Nest specific, but their are little shrines, jewelry, old coins, carvings, etc. They will haggle, even if they pretend like they won’t.

Is it worth it?
Of course! What a silly question.

Have you hiked to the Tiger’s Nest? Is Bhutan on your bucket list?

On Day 2 in Bhutan, I was really just crossing my fingers that a good night of rest would get me over my 12 hour stomach flu for the drive from Paro to Punakha, which it thankfully did.

After a delicious breakfast of French toast  (I must have been sick, I really don’t like French toast…ever) at Uma Paro, we were on our way. It was a beautiful sunny day, and the roads to Thimpu from Paro are well-paved and pretty straight. We stopped twice along the way for a gorgeous shot of the valley, as well as to see some of the old chain link bridges that still are used across the river.

We arrived in Thimpu in good time, and our first stop was the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, where they teach students the thirteen traditional Bhutanese arts, including things like Parzo (wood-carving), Thagzo (weaving), Jinzo (sculpture), and Lhazo (painting). I know many travelers decide to forgo this stop (I’ve read that they perceive it as too touristy or complain the grounds are too run down and the shop is expensive…), but it doesn’t take long and I thought it was really interesting–if nothing else, you get to see how some of the statues and paintings are made in the temples, which I thought was cool. Plus, I like seeing all the kids–broken up into separate rooms by grade–progress in their work. So you were able to see “Drawing 1” and “Drawing 5”, and the enormous progress between the two.

After the school, we went to the National Textile Museum, which is an incredibly large building that doesn’t quite fit in to the rest of the Bhutanese architecture…but it’s a really interesting place, with exhibits about the different dress in different regions of Bhutan (which varies quite significantly), as well as their traditional dress of the kira and gho (for women and for men, respectively). Most women and men wear the traditional dress every day, and I’m pretty sure are still required to when working.

Thimpu is charming. Most certainly more “city-like” than Paro, but still with no stoplights, small streets, beautiful architecture everywhere; it seriously looks like it is out of some fantasy land (I guess that’s but just one reason they call it the last Shangri-La). Apparently at one point they did try to put in a stoplight in the city, but that didn’t go over so well with the residents. There is a UN building there, as well as the national post office, Thimpu Dzong, etc. Plenty to see.

We didn’t know where lunch was going to be, but to our delight, we were dropped off at the Taj Tashi (and yes, lunch was still included…thanks Uma)!  There was a mention of boxed lunches at one point (not my favorite…at all), and so it was an unexpected surprise when our guide told us that would be where we were having lunch. I know some of you are probably wondering why we didn’t request to eat at a local restaurant…look, I was still a bit shaky from the previous night, and certainly didn’t need to test my stomach. I’m very much of the “rather safe than sorry” camp, particularly when I’m miles away from medical care and have a 4 hour car ride ahead.

The Taj is beautiful, inside and out. I had looked at staying in the Taj before we decided on going with the Uma Paro/COMO package, and it’s clear that the Taj is most definitely a luxury hotel in the heart of Thimpu. DH enjoyed Druk Supreme, another local beer (definitely not as good as Red Panda, obviously), and I enjoyed some delicious Japanese potato soup and some pad thai. The service as the Taj was a bit slow, but the food was good and the scenery absolutely gorgeous through huge bay windows. We weren’t really in a hurry, but we sort of were, because the road to Punakha closed at certain times for construction, so we had to make it through the checkpoint at a specific time.

And on to Punakha we went!  Spectacular scenery awaited on the drive ahead.

While there is more and more information out there about Bhutan, when I was planning I found much of it was out of date as things change quickly. I also had some questions that weren’t really answered until we arrived in Bhutan!  So here are some things that would have been helpful to know before our trip.

1. Airlines may not have transfer agreements with Drukair in Bangkok. What does this mean? It means you can’t go through the transfer counter in the airport in Bangkok, and will have to completely exit, including through customs, and then completely re-enter through security (including through customs). This is the case regardless if you have checked luggage or not (we did not). It also is the case regardless of whether or not you have a boarding pass (we had ours). Thai Airways does not have an agreement with Drukair, so build time into your itinerary if you have connecting flights and there isn’t an existing agreement.

2. When Drukair says flights may leave early, they mean it. Be on time (meaning arrive 2 hours early as recommended) to the airport. I know Paro is a tiny airport, but when they want to get the plane out, they leave. When you see the maneuvers they have to perform to get out of the valley, you’ll understand why–just go with it and be thankful that unlike airlines most places, they not only have the flexibility to leave when they essentially please, they will do so to avoid cancellations.

3. Be prepared for bad roads if you are going anywhere beyond Paro and Thimpu. I have an entire post on motion sickness, but if you are at all prone, make arrangements ahead of time, as the roads get bad quickly beyond Paro and Thimpu. They are unpaved, with huge elevation drops and gains (like 5,000 feet), and equally huge potholes. When it rains and dries, they get ruts. There are tight switchbacks. You’ve been warned.

4. While it cools off at night, days are hot. In September, plan to either wash your clothes and hang dry them (I bring powdered detergent), have them washed, or carry enough that you don’t have to re-wear things. You will not want to re-wear things if you are hiking. We were absolutely drenched from head to toe in Punakha, and not much better off in Paro.  It does get into the high 40’s and low 50’s at night, but by 9am it was close to 80 already.

5. Being in shape makes hiking much more pleasant. We saw some visitors who were really, really struggling. Particularly at the Tiger’s Nest, but also on a shorter hike (albeit, mostly uphill) in Punakha. Do yourself a favor and do some walking, hiking, and aerobic exercise before you go. While everyone traveling from lower elevations will notice the change in altitude, being in shape helps. You don’t want to be panting and drenched in sweat 15 minutes in to a 2.5 hour hike.

6. Hiking boots are not necessary unless trekking. There seem to be lots of questions out there about whether you need hiking boots for the Tiger’s Nest or other day hikes. No. They are not. DH and I both had lightweight trail running shoes and were more than comfortable. There are not areas of loose rock or boulders, it’s a trail and then mostly paved stairs. Hiking boots are truly over the top (and annoying to carry) unless you really need ankle support for existing issues. Now if you are trekking, this advice is not for you.

7. Everything really is included (except drinks, tips, and souvenirs). There were not any surprises; admissions, fees, etc are included in your package price.  However, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are not included, though all water is–even when ordered at lunch, etc. Souvenirs obviously aren’t included. If you desire, you can leave a small amount (20 ngultrum or similar, approximately $.50) in temples as an offering. We never felt pressured to do so, and sometimes did and sometimes didn’t.

8. Tipping your guide and driver is customary. I am a big proponent of tipping on the level of services received. The general guidelines that seem to be pretty universal, which we followed, were $8-$10 per day, per person for the guide and $5-$8 per day, per person for the driver. This can add a significant chunk of change to your budget, so be aware and be prepared. We carried, and paid them, in US dollars as this was easiest.

On our first day in Bhutan, after a lunch at Uma Paro, we took a 1 to 1.5 hour hike from our hotel to the National Museum in Paro. The hike was pretty–the first of a few hikes we would take, with gorgeous viewpoints down into the valley.It was HOT. Don’t let anyone tell you the weather in Bhutan is not hot in September. It’s hot. Even at 7,000-8,000 feet, the days are very warm. What kind of warm, you ask? You will be drenched in sweat. It’s like a day in Washington D.C. in the summer. It’s a bit unpleasant in the shade, but o.k. if there is a slight breeze and you aren’t moving. DH was shade hopping from shade spot to shade spot just like our dog to stay out of the sun, because in the sun–remember you are at 7,000 feet–you felt like a vampire that stepped out into the light.

Beautiful View on the Hike

Also–you either have to wear (or carry) pants and long-sleeved shirts (for women) and pants and a collared short-sleeve shirt or an uncollared long-sleeve shirt (for men) to enter the temples. I also get all itchy with plants brushing my legs (fear of invisible jungle fungus, I tell you) and don’t like bug bites, so long pants were good for me to wear in the forest in the first place. That said, extra layers of fabric just add to the heat, so be sure to bring breathable, good, tech clothing.It’s amazing to me all the temples in Bhutan that are built into the sides of the valley. You’ll be ambling along, and poof..a temple. It’s pretty incredible and impressive. It must be a slow process to build these, but they are beautiful and it really lends to the picturesqueness of the landscape.After wandering along the side of the valley, we looked down and saw our destination–the National Museum in Paro. The National Museum is easy to sight, with a distinctive round shape that is unusual for Bhutan: a watchtower, dating back to the 16th century.  Unfortunately, an earthquake in 2011 damaged the museum significantly. It is under repair, but unfit for visitors as of 2014. The artifacts and information have actually been moved to another administrative building directly behind the watchtower.

While I totally understand and respect their request that photos not be taken in the museum, I really wish that they would be allowed as I did not see the same information on the Tshechus (festivals) anywhere else in Bhutan–in particular, information about the masks. The sheer number of masks is absolutely incredible, but more than that, the meanings behind the masks were amazing. There were animal masks for pride, for humility, for shrewdness, for emotional stupidity, for vanity, for greed, for intelligence, etc. I particularly liked all of these animal masks with all of the complicated emotions and characteristics of humans.  There are also other masks symbolizing demons and important people, categorized by the type of dance in which they were used.

They also had an exhibit of important wall hangings, which explained the significance and meaning–again, this information was more exhaustive in the museum than anywhere else, and I wish I had written more down directly after our visit!  Additionally, the museum offered a great display on the natural history of Bhutan, complete with information on geology, flora, and fauna.  The amount and variety of wildlife is truly amazing; if we were to return to Bhutan–without question–we would figure out a way to travel to the remote eastern part of the country to try to catch a glimpse of a rhino, tiger, takin, blue goat, snow leopard, etc. I’d be thrilled just to see any one of those in the wild!

The National Museum is not that large, and I’d say it’s a great place to visit when you first arrive in Bhutan. We spent probably an hour and a half there, and were walking/exploring leisurely. There is a charge for entry, but if you are not Indian/Maldivian, this charge should already have been included in your ‘package’ and you should not have to pay an additional amount for entry.