Leleshwa is what I think of when I think of a quintessential safari camp. Small, luxurious, and welcoming.

Of course it didn’t hurt that we were the only guests there at the time. Even though it was the cusp of their high season, bookings remain way, way down. Travel advisories shmavel advisories. I think in every travel advisory, the government (all of ’em) should be required to put a map which shows the distance between “problem areas” and everywhere else.

Since people obviously can’t be bothered to look at a map themselves.

Or maybe they just have a crazy low risk tolerance. Considering we’ve had 3 shootings within five blocks of our house (yes, crime is up) in the last 2 weeks, we decided to take our chances in Kenya. You know, because we are just SO careless (rolling eyes).

Anyway, Leleshwa. The food at Leleshwa–made by a wonderful Masai chef that decided he liked to cook after being a staff member at the camp many, many, years ago–was SO good. And so much fun. Take…the hedgehog mango! Or the pineapple romanoff. Whattt??? In the bush??!!! So delicious and worthy of much excess punctuaction. I’ve never, ever, had anything like that pineapple before and it was seriously just incredible.

And I totally bet you’ve never seen an impala napkin, have you? It’s already been widely demonstrated that I’m a total sucker for towel art, but napkin art? Oh, our wonderful waiter had me with the impala. Adorable. And in a different animal every night.

Our tent–of which we certainly got the ridiculously large one with a separate lounging area–was beautiful. The bathroom was enormous. The bed was comfortable. While we were out most of the time doing game drives and such, I almost wished I had more time to laze in our tent reading a book.

Leleshwa is in a conservancy owned by the surrounding communities. There is plenty of wildlife on the conservancy, which is about an hour from the gate to the Masai Mara. We were also able to do a walk on the conservancy, which was actually really fun. We got to see an impala going nutty for a natural salt-lick on the riverbank, as well as tortoises, wildebeest, zebras, impalas, and more.

It was a lot of fun to have the company of the manager and our guide at lunch and dinner as well, they had some fantastic stories which we really enjoyed. There was always SO much food, as well as plenty of Tusker to go around (and a little Amarula, of course)!

While Leleshwa is a bit of a hike from the airstrip, and from the main gate of the Mara, being farther away also yields privacy and the opportunity to do things not allowed in the National Park (walks, and night drives). The camp is absolutely stunning, and I’m really glad we decided to stay there. Plus, to have the best of both worlds, they actually do have a mobile camp in the Masai Mara during high migration season so that you can spend a few days in both places. If we go back, I mean WHEN we go back, that is definitely an option we’d consider.

Thanks, Leleshwa.

Amboseli spoiled us a bit, as we were not expecting to see as much as we did. Including some dik-diks, which were totally unexpected but very much appreciated!

Interestingly, Tortilis Camp does have an electric fence surrounding it. It’s the first time I’ve seen a fenced camp in Africa–usually you are escorted back to your tent after dark with a guard. I’m not one of those people who is scared that something is going to crawl into my tent…unless that something is a black mamba, in which case, the fence doesn’t do any good anyway! In large part I think this fence is also for their garden, as they grow much of their produce on site. I don’t imagine that keeping African animals (or any animals for that matter) out of a large garden is an easy task.

One of the benefits of the fencing is the population of dik-diks, which tend to stick around the camps knowing they are safer!  Ever shy and elusive, dik-iks aren’t spotted super frequently in the wild, and rarely long enough to get more than a glimpse. They are the most adorable little animals, and ever since our first trip to Tanzania, I wanted to see more dik-diks. Well, these little creatures were everywhere. They liked to go under our tent, actually, and dear husband got some very adorable pictures of them.

Look at Those Giant Eyes and Huge Ears! My Favorite Deer

Obviously any trip to Africa would not be complete without giraffes. I had forgotten that giraffes do not have vocal cords! Yet another animal that is so much fun to watch stride, in huge steps, along the African savanna.

I don’t know why I try to describe these animals sometimes, pictures are much, much better than words.

Now, I will readily admit that sundowners happen to be one of–or maybe my most–favored activity on safari. Actually, probably in life. I mean, I love Tusker (or other local beer for that matter). I love watching animals. And I’ve even learned after 30 years to enjoy watching the sunset (only in Africa, though. I’m not THAT old yet). Could you ever get tired of this view?

DH Was Too Sick to Make Fun of My Cactus Hat

Mom (AKA The Enabler), Me, and DH Enjoying Sundowners.

And Tortilis camp is great at sundowners, as most camps are. Some appetizers, enough Tusker for all, and chairs for the view. Unfortunately, dear husband also got sick that day, so he had to stick to Fanta, no food, and obviously was not quite enjoying himself! If you know Jeff, you know any day he passes on food and beer is not a good day. I’m happy to say he had plenty of sundowners at Leleshwa, the next camp, to make up for it.

All in all, Amboseli was an excellent choice (and there is always Tsavo for the next trip!) and Tortilis was a great starting point for our trip to Kenya. It’s a solid selection for accommodation, with decent food (much grown there and fresh made pasta), a great staff, clean and upkept tents, and a fantastic location. Definitely plenty of luxury, and there are villas with private plunge pools if that’s your style (no, we didn’t stay in those).

Amboseli,  while small, certainly packed a large punch of wildlife and was most definitely worth the 3-night stay.

Cheetahs and lions, in particular.

It is SO much fun just to sit and watch the cats interact. And we did a lot of it. We were fortunate enough to see some large cubs playing with a dead bird, as well as small cheetah cubs following mom’s every instruction, while also sneaking up and tussling with one another.

I Get the Stick, You Get the Feather

But That’s MY Feather

Sharing Stalking Responsibilities

One Day I Will Use These Gigantic Hind Paws

It’s hard to explain to someone who hasn’t been to Africa what it’s like to see the animals in their natural environment, acting, essentially, like you aren’t there. It’s one of my favorite experiences, pretty much ever. I can’t really ever see it getting old. It often makes me wish I had decided to do field research on mammals of some sort–though I realize that when you try to make play into work, it isn’t always as fun as you think!

In addition to cats, I really enjoyed watching the bird-life, particularly the crested or crowned cranes. They are simply stunning and just a bit odd looking. And of course the lilac breasted-roller. I like to call this a gateway bird, as for me, it was the first bird the perked my interest in watching birds. For the first time, we saw a pygmy kingfisher, though those little birds are often too quick to get a good shot of unless you are ready and waiting! They are bright and darling.

Beautiful!

Everyone Needs a Gateway Bird. This Was Mine.

SO many elephants, including really tiny babies. We watched babies playing with one another–including one little one causing trouble, and then running quickly behind his mother to avoid any payback! We also enjoyed watching two elephants have a stand-off for nearly 45 minutes. While you see elephants more frequently than the cats, watching them doesn’t get boring either!

Our home base in Amboseli was Tortilis Camp, which is set just a 10-15 minute drive from Amboseli and about a 30 min drive from the airstrip. Tortilis is small, but not tiny–it’s in between one of the massive lodges and the much more intimate tented camps. The tents are permanent, but still canvas. Nicely sized, plenty of hot water, with a great porch. The lodge area is quite large, with plenty of room to spread out and enjoy the view of the water hole. In addition, while it was too chilly for us, Tortilis does have a nice pool (with a bar!) that would be inviting during the summer months for sure.

Our guide at Tortilis, LeParis (like the city, he says), was extremely knowledgeable about all things African wildlife. No matter how many times we go on safari, there is always something new to learn. He was also excellent at spotting things way off in the distance, positioned the vehicle so we had the best view, and was just very accommodating. While we didn’t pay extra for exclusive use of the vehicle/guide, that was a big perk of not being there during high season–we had Paris, and the vehicle, to ourselves.

Certainly our first few days in Kenya were memorable–more on Amboseli and Tortilis in Part 2, coming soon!

Why We Chose the Caribbean: We chose the Caribbean coast rather than the Pacific because we wanted less people, no huge resorts, and the possibility of some snorkeling. We were interested in something a bit more off the beaten path. Though I get the impression that not much in Costa Rica is really off the beaten path, at least not when you compare to other countries in both Central America and the rest of the world.

I would be remiss in noting, as we experienced, that snorkeling in Costa Rica is hit or miss around Puerto Viejo due to both currents and murky water due to weather/rain.  None of the tours offshore were running due to the rough surf when we were there (and hadn’t been for a few weeks).

Where to Stay: Once we had settled on the Caribbean coast, I started looking for a place to stay.  Initially, I was really interested in Banana Azul in Puerto Viejo, in part due to the fact that they had an operator on-site to run snorkeling tours.  There are a bajillion people on TripAdvisor asking about Banana Azul, and what it’s like, so it’s pretty easy to get impressions from both the reviews and the forums.

I’m sure Banana Azul is a great fit for many people, but I didn’t think it was a great fit for us due to some of the reviews about the lack of privacy between the rooms, including some shared balconies, etc.  I’m not trying to turn people away from Banana Azul by any means, but it wasn’t the type of experience we were looking for: more secluded, no need for any services (Banana Azul has food/drink service on the beach), and more glamping.

Choosing a Lodge: So many reviews on TripAdvisor about jungle lodges stretching from Cahuita to Manzanillo are negative, so I was getting worried.  I’m not one of those people that go by the overall rating; I carefully read a lot of reviews, good, mediocre, and ugly. I read reviews from people who travel a lot, and I focus on things that I know I do/don’t like. For example, thin towels and inconsistent hot water really bug me. But I totally laugh at/disregard silly complaints about having the occasional gecko in the room when you are in the jungle. And I don’t do dirt. In rooms. By that I mean human dirt, I’m not squeamish about leaves and such. Ending tangent/ramble.

Geckoes Lodge had great reviews, but it was a bit beyond what we wanted to spend. I looked at Le Cameleon, but it seemed like we could stay at a place like this in Europe, and we wanted something more “Costa Rica-ish” for lack of a better word.  So the one place I kept coming back to was Korrigan Lodge.

Korrigan Lodge: Korrigan has great reviews, and deservedly so. Yup, there are bugs–but no mosquitoes, which is really my concern. And for goodness sake, you are in the jungle: there will be bugs. The breakfast is delicious, the bungalows are clean, and the towels are fluffy. It’s set back into the jungle a bit, and they did a fantastic job at not disturbing the canopy, so there are lots of howler monkeys, iguanas, birds, etc.

I’m Five Feet Long and Just Fell Twenty Feet From a Tree–But Don’t Fret, I’m Still a Fine Iguana

Ingrid and Erwan (the owners) will help you arrange whatever you want (like a hike in Manzanillo), and give you suggestions on food, etc.  We came out the first day to see a baby sloth crawling on a branch just in front of the breakfast area!  The breakfast is more than I could ever eat, and filled me up for most of the day which is really nice.

Our Awesome Little Bungalow At Korrigan Lodge

Tourists/Atmosphere: After driving through Puerto Viejo on the way to Korrigan, I was SO thankful that we were farther away. Puerto Viejo has lots of people, and lots of tourists. And lots of “free souls” and rastafarians. If you know me, you can only think….that is definitely NOT somewhere Heather would want to spend time. It can be loud, with lots of music and plenty of drunk/high people, even at 6pm. In fact that initial impression turned us off so much we chose not to go back and visit. Sorry Puerto Viejo.

Instead, we stuck to Cocles, Punta Uva, and Manzanillo. Sure, there are some tourists around but not that many, particularly the farther you go from Puerto Viejo. There are a lot of locals enjoying the beaches. Oh, except the mal-dressed, shoeless, individuals going to work on the organic farm in Manzanillo. I’m not making fun of poor people–these were travelers/free-spirits/whatever.  (To each their own Heather, to each their own).

Beaches: I definitely think the beaches are the best either north of Puerto Viejo or around Punta Uva. I can vouch that the beach near Punta Uva is absolutely stunningly gorgeous and clean. It is that beach you see on a postcard. No one ever tried to sell us anything the entire time we were there. We never felt unsafe. Manzanillo is much busier and not as clean as Punta Uva.

Absolutely Beautiful Punta Uva

Overall: If you are looking for quiet time, some seclusion/privacy, more nature, and a relaxed vacation without nightlife, I’d strongly suggest Punta Uva and Korrigan. Puerto Viejo isn’t far if you want to visit, and there is plenty to eat within biking distance of Punta Uva. If you are looking for friends/socialization, fellow partiers, drugs, or lots of late-nights, head to Puerto Viejo.

Hope this is helpful! Happy to answer questions about Korrigan or Punta Uva as we really enjoyed our time there.

I’m a sucker for animals. In fact, it’s a running joke that I only show affection to horses and dogs. So it should be no real surprise that an entire blog post is devoted to a dog.

Bassam, that is.

The Korrigan Lodge, where we stayed in Punta Uva, is owned by Ingrid and Erwan, who have a dog named Bassam.  Bassam’s name appears in many a TripAdvisor review, and when I was looking for a place to stay in the area, I sort of rolled my eyes. No dog could be that great. They must be exaggerating. Throwing in little white lies.

And now I’m writing an entire blog post about Bassam.

(Fodor’s 2015 guide book kindly notes as a con of the Korrigan Lodge “dogs not for everyone”. Fair enough–they aren’t. But he’s the sort of dog that pretty much ignores people who don’t want company and goes to those who do, and not obnoxious or pestering if you are on the fence).

Bassam loves to go to the beach. I know a lot of dogs like to go to the beach. But Bassam loves to go with YOU to the beach. And by YOU, I mean any guest on his property. He waits in the morning for someone to invite him (if you tell him to stay, he does). Then he leads the way, checking back periodically to make sure you are keeping up which you are surely not.

Once on the beach, you (and your stuff) are under Bassam’s care. He watches you, and your things when you are in the water, barking at any passerby that strays too close, and barking at you if he thinks you’ve been in the water maybe a bit too long (or he wants attention). He’s also happy to do a bit of body surfing and rolling in the sand, of course.

He’s also a teensy bit–strike that–very jealous. We had another sweet beach dog visit us. He only wanted pets and to curl up within arm’s reach, but Bassam wouldn’t allow it. It was sweet, even if a wee bit overprotective.

We took Bassam to the beach almost every day. He won us over (sorry, Toasty, we still love you the most of course), and of all the things we loved about Costa Rica, going to the beach with Bassam nears the top of the list.

Thanks, Bassam (and Korrigan Lodge).

I had seriously considered staying in Puerto Viejo, which is pretty hoppin’ these days. But as we drove through on the first day heading toward Punta Uva, I knew I made the right choice staying in Punta Uva instead.

Puerto Viejo is great if you are single, looking to party, and being around lots of 20 and 30  somethings taking a break from “real life”. It’s loud, it’s rowdy, and it sort of reminds me of Chiang Mai in a very Central American way. That is most definitely NOT what we were looking for.  There is one pretty nice hotel (Le Cameleon) that might fit the bill if you are looking for luxury, but in general, there isn’t much of that either.

The farther you get from Puerto Viejo, the quieter things are. Once you get to Cocles and Playa Chiquita, there are restaurants lining the street and great beach access, and you definitely see more and more families as well as more Costa Ricans enjoying their beautiful coast. It seems there are more Europeans and less Americans on this side of Costa Rica.

We stayed at the Korrigan Lodge, which was amazing. Korrigan is smack dab between Cocles and Manzanillo, making it about a 30 minute bike ride to both (leisurely bike ride at that). Korrigan has four small bungalows, gracious French owners, and a dog named Bassam that quickly won us over. They don’t have a restaurant, but a delicious breakfast is included.

Food is delicious…but not cheap. Even in grocery stores, stuff is expensive. Obviously produce and fruit like bananas are not, since they grow like weeds in Costa Rica. But if you want to eat at restaurants, be prepared–while the food is typically good to great, we were surprised to spend $60 on dinner almost every night. I’m sure you could go to cheaper places in Puerto Viejo, but in Punta Uva (and surrounding area), this was pretty much the going rate.

Be flexible–it rains a lot! While we generally lucked out with only one half day of rain, it pours at night. Technically January is the rainy season for the Caribbean, rain is still pretty common most of the year. It was a good excuse to finish a book.

All in all, the Caribbean coast was a wonderful place for us. It’s one of the few places that both DH and I decided we would like to return. It’s enough off the beaten path to still be authentic and quiet, while being developed enough to have common luxuries (good roads, wifi, etc).

And the sloth obsession has only just begun….

I’m not one to just rave about hotel experiences. It’s very rare for me to really, really like a hotel.  But our experience with the COMO properties in both Bangkok and Bhutan were excellent, and I would not hesitate to stay at another COMO property in the future. (COMO did not pay for our stay or provide us any compensation for this endorsement, just so we’re up front here.)When we were first planning for our trip, the idea was to stay at the Metropolitan by COMO in Bangkok for one night–as we received a complimentary night for booking our Bhutan package with COMO.  Then, I had planned to use points to stay in a Marriott for the other two nights.  That plan was sort of scrapped when I drained most of my Marriott points in Naples, when we went to visit Pompeii. But one of the Marriott hotels was still less expensive, so we were considering a move.

I came to my senses and we realized how silly that was, with how little time we were spending in Bangkok. Did we really want to change hotels? No. Plus, we got a promotional rate at the Metropolitan, through COMO, since we had booked them as our tour operator in Bhutan.  So the Metropolitan it was.

The Metropolitan is not a small hotel (well, until you see the towering Banyan Tree next door); I think it has about 130 rooms. That said, we were addressed by name at the front desk each time we needed something, and we rarely saw more than 5-6 other guests at a time. While I think the hotel was relatively full (though it was off season, and I know Bangkok tourism is still suffering a bit from all the political change and protests earlier in the year), it felt far from crowded.Before our 3:40am transfer to the airport, they made us a hot breakfast, with freshly squeezed orange juice and all, to take with us.  They initially promised that it would be delivered to our room so we could eat it beforehand, and were most apologetic when it was not ready in time to be delivered. We were most certainly not expecting a fully cooked, fresh breakfast in a bag awaiting us at the front desk, after nothing showed up at our room!  It was most appreciated at that hour.

DH liked the Metropolitan too, even before we got an upgrade to the penthouse suite! Shout-out to the Metropolitan for that totally unprompted and unforeseen upgrade, we enjoyed ourselves. (Real question though…seriously, what do people do with all that space?!!) I also liked the Metropolitan because I thought the price point was extremely fair for the service, amenities, and rooms. No, it wasn’t the absolutely nicest hotel I’ve ever stayed at–but it was a hotel that I can afford to stay in without cringing at check out.

While I think a review of COMO as a tour operator in Bhutan deserves a separate review of its own (all great though), I will say the properties in Bhutan were a bit smaller and boutique than the Metropolitan in Bangkok. It seemed the staff always knew what you needed, where you had been, what you wanted to do–there was no having to repeat yourself to your guide, to reception, to the host at the restaurant. It was all seamless. And personalized: they knew what table you wanted after you asked the first night, always remembered what you ordered the morning before, and were always willing to go above and beyond. When I was sick the first night, they immediately just told DH they would serve us dinner in our room and suggested some things which might sound good to me. Of course, when I emerged the next morning I was asked numerous times if I was feeling better by multiple staff members.So COMO, you impressed me. The properties “fit” into their environments (both interior and exterior), both in Bhutan and Thailand.  Service was understated but yet so attentive and personal. Food was impeccable in all locations (and I’m picky). Shambala spa products are amazing. Everything was always clean. Heated towel bars rocked.

We’ll be back…maybe Turks & Caicos?  So many choices!

Have you stayed at a COMO property? What did you think?

We spent two days in Battambang, heading there between our time in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.Early one morning, our tuk-tuk driver/guide took us on a great tour of the communities just outside Battambang.  We buzzed around in the tuk-tuk all morning, visiting a wide variety of places with his informative, humorous, and candid commentary. I think the tour route is pretty standard, but that didn’t make it any less fascinating.

I don’t really think Battambang gets as many visitors as many other places in Cambodia; none of the visits felt stages or commercialized.  I feel like we saw much more of the “real” side of Cambodia in Battambang, beyond the hustle and bustle of Siem Reap with visitors crawling everywhere, and the pollution and city feel of Phnom Penh.  As the pictures show below, we saw the making of so many things! Battambang Province, I believe, is the leading rice-producer in the entire country.

We made a point to visit Wat Wamrong Knong, which has a very well done carving sequence, called the Well of Shadows, which depicts the horrors of the Khmer Rouge. I’ve included a picture of the dedication below, but I think the wall itself is best seen in person, rather than online.

Our guide did speak to us about the Khmer Rouge–he was a child, and lost nearly all of his family, never to see his mother and father again. It was one of the few conversations we had with Cambodians about their personal experiences during this time.  Many would only discuss in the third person, or more generally about what happened.  Obviously I will never be able to fully comprehend what occurred under the Khmer Rouge, but I really appreciated our guide’s willingness to provide a very small window of insight into what happened during that period in Cambodia history.While we initially thought we may have had too much time in Battambang (there isn’t that much to see in the city itself), I think we definitely could have filled another day there.  There are some beautiful temples we missed, and I know the Bamboo Railway remains a popular attraction (though it didn’t lure us particularly).

We stayed at Battambang Resort, which was amazing! It’s beautifully laid out, with fantastic rooms, great breakfast, fast wifi, and a gorgeous pool.  It’s a bit outside of town, but it’s such a wonderful place. The owners are always present and eager to help you find your way around, schedule a tuk-tuk, or talk to you about Cambodia.

If you are looking for somewhere a bit off the beaten path of the Cambodian tourist trail, I think Battambang is absolutely a great place for a visit.

Have you been to Battambang? Do you think it’s worth a detour from Phnom Penh or Siem Reap?

Well of Shadows

Dried Fish Ready to Sell

A Vat Full of Rice Noodles!

Finished Product

Making Rice Wine

Making Rice Paper Wraps (for Eating!)

Brightly Colored Fish Drying in the Sun

With this knowledge, I started my long, windy road to finding a pot of gold and (I hope) what will be a great operator for us.

The fee structure for visiting Bhutan, as of Summer 2014, is as follows:

For a group of 3 or more:  $250 per person, per night traveling in March-May and Sept-Nov (all other times $200 per person per night).

For a group of 2:  An additional $30 per person, per night.

For a single: An additional $40 per night.

This ‘tariff’ includes: All internal taxes and charges, a sustainable tourism royalty, internal ground transport, meals, a licensed tour guide, and a minimum 3 star accommodation.

First, per my usually weirdness, I had already created a short-list of hotels that I wanted to stay at in Bhutan. Let’s just say I’m a bit selective/particular when it comes to accommodations and leave it at that…On my short-list was the Taj Tashi, Uma Paro, the Aman properties (as if these were in our budget..hahahahaha), Uma Punakha, Zhiwa Ling, and a few others.

Second, I looked at itineraries for U.S. companies with whom I have previously traveled (or was familiar with), but most of the trips were 9++ days.  We were a bit constricted on time, particularly given the extra days we needed to build in a cushion for any possible delays.  A 9-day trip was rapidly looking like at least 13 days, and that didn’t even count spending some quality time in Bangkok, which we knew we wanted to do. I also wasn’t totally convinced I wanted to spend 9 days just in Bhutan (commitment issues?). So this wasn’t going to work.

Side note: Had I known there were red pandas in the remote regions, I probably would have done anything possible for a red panda sighting. Alas, another time.

Third, I had read on the TripAdvisor forums that booking through a local operator reduced the cost (obviously), so I started sorting through local operators to create a customized tour. The daily rate only includes 3* accommodations, so I knew I’d have to pay more for the luxury properties I wanted. Even without hotel upgrades, we were looking at $560 per day, and operators rarely (ever?) start at the minimum tariff in the first place. And after a few quotes topping an additional $350 per person per night or more for the hotels I wanted, I was questioning whether I really wanted luxury accommodations after all. Daily fee+supplement for only 2 ppl+operator surcharge+ $700 extra per night=not going to happen.

Fourth, I whined a bit to DH how I really wanted to go to Bhutan but things were just looking really expensive and I really wanted to stay in nice places (I told you I had accommodation issues, and Bhutan is my 30th birthday present to myself, too).

Then, I stumbled upon Uma Paro’s (by COMO Hotels) packages when looking at their rack rates.  Yup, they were expensive, but they already included the “extra” for upgrading the accommodations. Plus, they threw in some luxury extras like massages for two and a free night in Bangkok (awesomesauce!). There were no additional fees.  I was intrigued! Now–the packages weren’t ‘cheap’ enough that I booked the same day….no, no they very much weren’t.

Instead, I spent hours emailing Uma Paro’s wonderful reservation managers, who answered all of my questions to my satisfaction and in an extremely timely manner. I also preferred Uma Paro as some (not all) of the local tour operators requested wire transfers. I won’t go into why this is a huge pain in the ass for me, but it is and I get uncomfortable wiring thousands of dollars; I feel more protected with a credit card transaction (+ pointtsssss!!). So that was a plus.

After playing date roulette more than I would have liked, we finally took the plunge and put down a deposit. As our departure date draws closer, I’m beyond excited to have our entire trip through COMO Hotels, staying at the two Uma properties in Bhutan.  Time will tell if the choice was a good one, but I am pretty confident that–for what we wanted (luxury, relaxation, and an awesome cultural experience)–it will be an excellent choice.

Tiger’s Nest…here we come!

Do you choose hotels before you choose anything else for a trip? Have you been to Bhutan and have advice for us? I’d love to hear from you!

Location: Hidden Valley is nestled on a beautiful reserve in the Mountain Pine Ridge area.  It’s really interesting to watch the ecosystems change as you climb towards the property–the shift from tropical to pine is quite distinct.  It is pretty remote (given how small Belize is), and not near other lodges in the area.

Lodge & Restaurant Area

Transfers: We arranged transfers from Belize City International Airport through Hidden Valley, which went off without a hitch. This was easiest for us, and it was fun to drive (2.5 hours) to Hidden Valley to see more of the countryside in Belize and chat with our driver.  However, had we known our flights were going to be soooo much later, we may have opted to fly to San Ignacio, or to the private airstrip on the property (Hidden Valley will arrange the charter flights upon request).

Reception: As soon as we arrived at Hidden Valley, the receptionist welcomed us with a drink.  Before our flight changes, we had scheduled our trip to Caracol for the day after we arrived.  She had already rescheduled Caracol a day later, so we had a more resful day after our first night.  I appreciated the proactive foresight, and we definitely agreed that was the way to go. Particularly because I had gotten pretty nauseous on the way up to Hidden Valley–the roads + a van + prone to motion sickness…no bueno.  The staff at Hidden Valley really went out of their way to say good morning, ask how your day was, and was always incredibly helpful with any request.

Food: Hidden Valley offers a 4 course menu every day with different options; they also have a menu that they use for lunch and for dinner with lots of options, including burgers, pizza, pasta, and some more regional options.  While there wasn’t much I was overly interested in on the first 4 course menu (I think there was a curry option and a lamb option…neither of which I enjoy), but the next two nights had some really appealing dishes!  We also ordered off the menu at lunch, and everything was really good. Food service is a bit slow, but we like to enjoy a beer and recap the day so it really wasn’t a problem. Plus, it’s nice to know that everything is made to order. They take great care in their food and it definitely shows. The restaurant is for hotel guests only.

Rooms: The rooms are what I would describe rustic, classic luxury–everything is clean and the beds are crisp and comfortable.  We also had some beautiful fresh-cut tropical flowers which I enjoyed. It cools off at night because of the higher elevation, and each room has a fireplace.  With kindling and matches, DH did pretty well stoking ours; I was impressed.  The chimneys work well so you/your clothes don’t end up smelling like smoke, even if you have a fire most of the night. Hidden Valley Inn only has 10 cottages and 2 suites, so booking early is a necessity.